Sunday

After dropping our bags off at the apartment, our first destination was the Marché de Wazemmes which closes at 3p on Sundays, and wouldn’t be open on Monday. It took about a 15 min walk from the city center, and there were lots of clothing, flower and kitchenware vendors outside the market shouting for your attention. Inside (where it was not much warmer) there were lots of food options.

After walking through the aisles once we decided to have lunch here and bought some mimolette cheese (native to the region), a fresh-out-of-the-oven baguette, and a Bière de Noël from Brasserie Thirieza that had a mild peppery spice to it.

Later that afternoon we tried out La Capsule beer bar. The bartender was very friendly and helped us go through the fairly large draft offerings. I tried the Hazy Diamond, a sour with lots of flavor, really excellent, and Loomi, made from dry black limes (quite light overall, some citrus flavor and mineral). Leandra tried the Tourbée by Brasserie du Pavé, a smoked blonde ale and the Wild Leeuw (on cask), a rich and sour Oud Bruin from Brasserie du Pays Flamand.

For dinner we were lucky to have reservations at Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille. I ordered a Welsh with ham and Maroilles cheese (a lovely local cheese) and it was like a fondue crossed with a ham sandwich. Really tasty and paired well with Secret Des Moines Triple. Leandra ordered the ‘two terrines’ main – chicken and fig (her surprise fave) and pork and beer, paired a La Goudale Noel. The tables were too close and it was a bit drafty on a cold winter night, but staff were quite friendly and the food was well worth it.

Monday

While out exploring the city we stopped in to Comtesse de Barry, which specializes in Toulouse pates in cans, then Maison Georges Larnicol where we bought several macarons (their chocolate by the kg selection looked great too!).

Before dinner we returned to La Capsule, where I tried the strawberry beer (great flavor and mildly sour) while Leandra went for a cask pepper beer, Big Boy, a spicy, delicious Russian Imperial Stout. This time we sat in the cozy basement.

Dinner was at Table N9uf, and we were informed at the start of the meal that a new chef had started that day! I ordered the carbonnade which surprised me as it was less of a stew, and more a standard pot roast. The potatoes were great and the carrots were nice too. Leandra ordered the Chaud Biloute, a warm local cheese with potato wedges and several sliced meats. Not as stinky as expected, and she loved it!  The chocolate souffle dessert was so light, absolutely wonderful.